Climbing › United States › Kentucky › Northern Gorge

// Rock climbing · Kentucky

Climbing at Northern Gorge

550 routes on 53 walls, 5.0–5.14a · boulders V0–V10. In Kentucky. When the rock grips hour by hour, topos and people to climb with, in the app.

See the Friction Score in the app The grades

Routes

550

Walls

Grades

5.0–5.14a · boulders V0–V10

Rock

Sandstone

Style

Trad

Best season (estimated)

March–May · September–October

// The grades

What grades are there?

Routes by grade

From 5.0 to 5.14a. Half are between 5.8 and 5.11a.

105

Boulders by grade

From V0 to V10. Half are between V1 and V6.

Each climb counts at its grade; ungraded ones are left out. In the app you can switch to French, UIAA, British or Font grades.

// The walls

Sun and shade

Walls face several ways: pick the sector for sun or shade at any hour.

North3 sectorsNortheast3 sectorsEast6 sectorsSoutheast8 sectorsSouth14 sectorsSouthwest7 sectorsWest10 sectorsNorthwest1 sector

Estimated best season: March–May · September–October. Worked out from each wall's aspect and the latitude; the app fine-tunes it with what climbers log.

South-facing wall

S · aspect 180°

Example

Excellent

★ best at 6 PM

12a6a12p6p11p

57°

Temp

41%

Humidity

Wind

Sun

Wall

Friction ScoreHow the rock grips, hour by hour and wall by wall. In the app, for every crag on the map. See it in the app →ILLUSTRATIVE EXAMPLE

// Walls

The 53 walls

ASPECT · GRADES · ROUTES

01Military WallSE · 131° · 5.7–5.13d42 routes

02Long Wall5.5–5.13b41 routes

03Indian CreekNE · 50° · 5.6–5.12c38 routes

04Fortress WallS · 171° · 5.2–5.11a30 routes

05Funk Rock CityS · 185° · 5.6–5.13a29 routes

06Pebble BeachW · 291° · 5.3–5.13a28 routes

07Pistol RidgeS · 158° · 5.1–5.12c28 routes

08Eastern Sky Bridge RidgeSW · 203° · 5.8–5.14a24 routes

09Left FlankSW · 205° · 5.8–5.13b22 routes

10PhantasiaE · 82° · 5.5–5.12d21 routes

11Purple ValleyS · 201° · 5.6–5.11c19 routes

12Dip WallSW · 210° · 5.3–5.11c18 routes

13The Kentucky WallS · 164° · 5.4–5.11d18 routes

14Lower Small WallSW · 204° · 5.2–5.9 · boulders V0–V115 routes and boulders

15Wall of DenialSE · 147° · 5.6–5.12a15 routes

16The CoveS · 193° · V1–V1013 boulders

17Tower RockW · 255° · 5.1–5.11c12 routes

18Eagle Point ButtressS · 177° · 5.7–5.10c11 routes

19Hen's Nest RockSE · 131° · 5.6–5.10c10 routes

20Princess ArchW · 272° · 5.1–5.10d8 routes

21Board WallW · 268° · 5.8–5.10b7 routes

22Middle Small WallSE · 115° · 5.7–5.10d7 routes

23Haystack RockNW · 305° · 5.2–5.66 routes

24Lost RidgeNE · 53° · 5.9–5.11a6 routes

25Lumpy WallS · 162° · 5.6–5.9 · boulders V15 routes and boulders

26Moonshiner's WallS · 179° · 5.4–5.10b5 routes

27Staircase WallS · 179° · 5.3–5.10c5 routes

28Camp Store CragSE · 136° · 5.7–5.11d · boulders V44 routes and boulders

29The DomeW · 282° · 5.4–5.10a4 routes

30Dunkan RockSW · 214° · 5.8–5.10c4 routes

31The Heights (Bouldering)S · 169° · V2–V44 boulders

32Jazz RockN · 352° · 5.6–5.10c4 routes

33Mariba ForkW · 264° · 5.2–5.94 routes

34Willie's WallSE · 120° · 5.6–5.10d4 routes

35Window WallS · 189° · 5.74 routes

36Bee BranchN · 339° · 5.7–5.93 routes

37Blackburn RockW · 287° · V0–V1 · routes 5.12c3 routes and boulders

38Clearcut WallSW · 237° · 5.83 routes

39Courthouse RockS · 186° · 5.0–5.93 routes

40Half Moon RockW · 272° · 5.4–5.10a3 routes

41Jewel PinnacleNE · 64° · 5.6–5.11a3 routes

42Symphony WallSW · 240° · 5.7–5.11c3 routes

43The Spring WallN · 20° · 5.9–5.10d2 routes

44Tunnel WallS · 179° · 5.11a2 routes

45Western Sky Bridge RidgeSE · 157° · 5.9–5.10c2 routes

46Adena WallSE · 156° · 5.10a1 route

47Jailhouse RockE · 83° · 5.10b1 route

48Lower Sky Bridge RidgeE · 75° · 5.11c1 route

49Minas TirithE · 108° · 5.91 route

50Pinch Em TightE · 94° · 5.61 route

51Raven RockE · 99° · 5.91 route

52Rough TrailW · 289° · 5.91 route

53Shallow BoulderW · 256°1 route

Route names, topos and approaches are in the app.

// Where it is

On the map

// Nearby

Crags nearby

01Muscle Beach5.2–5.11a · Shale · Trad2 mi · 20 routes 02Natural Bridge Region5.2–5.13c · boulders V0–V8 · Conglomerate · Sport7 mi · 198 routes and boulders 03See Rocks5.0–5.7 · Sandstone · Trad7 mi · 3 routes 04The Zoo5.4–5.14d · Shale · Sport8 mi · 46 routes 05Muir Valley5.1–5.14a · Sandstone · Sport8 mi · 428 routes 06Southern Region Crags (Miscellaneous)5.10a–5.11d · Shale · Sport13 mi · 7 routes 07Murder Branch5.8–5.9 · Conglomerate · Sport · Top rope13 mi · 3 routes 08Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve (PMRP)5.0–5.14d · Conglomerate · Sport14 mi · 534 routes

// The Friction Score for every crag

Climb more. Guess less.

When the rock grips, hour by hour and wall by wall; topos, your logbook and people to climb with. In your units (°F or °C) and your grades (YDS or French). The social side is free, always.