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Climbing › United States › California › The Middle Kingdom
// Rock climbing · California

Climbing at The Middle Kingdom

37 routes on 8 walls, 5.3–5.11a. In California. When the rock grips hour by hour, topos and people to climb with, in the app.

Routes
37
Walls
8
Grades
5.3–5.11a
Rock
Granodiorite
Style
Trad
Best season (estimated)
March–May · September–November
// The grades

What grades are there?

Routes by grade

From 5.3 to 5.11a. Half are between 5.7 and 5.10b.

Each climb counts at its grade; ungraded ones are left out. In the app you can switch to French, UIAA, British or Font grades.

// The walls

Sun and shade

Walls face several ways: pick the sector for sun or shade at any hour.

North1 sectorNortheast0 sectorsEast1 sectorSoutheast0 sectorsSouth2 sectorsSouthwest0 sectorsWest0 sectorsNorthwest1 sector

Estimated best season: March–May · September–November. Worked out from each wall's aspect and the latitude; the app fine-tunes it with what climbers log.

Friction ScoreHow the rock grips, hour by hour and wall by wall. In the app, for every crag on the map. See it in the app →ILLUSTRATIVE EXAMPLE

// Walls

The 8 walls

ASPECT · GRADES · ROUTES
01The TechulatorS · 192° · 5.5–5.11a14 routes
02Pernicious DomeE · 88° · 5.7–5.10c8 routes
03Mistaken Rock5.6–5.10b4 routes
04The Skin Graft5.4–5.74 routes
05Smith RockNW · 336° · 5.7–5.10c3 routes
06El Dorado5.10c2 routes
073 Little PigsS · 194° · 5.31 route
08Clean Crack RockN · 0° · 5.10a1 route

Route names, topos and approaches are in the app.

// Where it is

On the map

// Nearby

Crags nearby

// The Friction Score for every crag

Climb more. Guess less.

When the rock grips, hour by hour and wall by wall; topos, your logbook and people to climb with. In your units (°F or °C) and your grades (YDS or French). The social side is free, always.

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