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Climbing › United States › California › Desert Queen Mine
// Rock climbing · California

Climbing at Desert Queen Mine

48 routes on 15 walls, 5.3–5.12d. In California. When the rock grips hour by hour, topos and people to climb with, in the app.

Routes
48
Walls
15
Grades
5.3–5.12d
Rock
Granodiorite
Style
Trad
Best season (estimated)
March–May · October–November
// The grades

What grades are there?

Routes by grade

From 5.3 to 5.12d. Half are between 5.9 and 5.10d.

Each climb counts at its grade; ungraded ones are left out. In the app you can switch to French, UIAA, British or Font grades.

// The walls

Sun and shade

Mostly west-facing: morning shade, afternoon sun.

North0 sectorsNortheast1 sectorEast0 sectorsSoutheast0 sectorsSouth1 sectorSouthwest3 sectorsWest3 sectorsNorthwest7 sectors

Estimated best season: March–May · October–November. Worked out from each wall's aspect and the latitude; the app fine-tunes it with what climbers log.

Friction ScoreHow the rock grips, hour by hour and wall by wall. In the app, for every crag on the map. See it in the app →ILLUSTRATIVE EXAMPLE

// Walls

The 15 walls

ASPECT · GRADES · ROUTES
01Fraggle RockNW · 318° · 5.3–5.12d12 routes
02Queen Crimson DomeSW · 246° · 5.8–5.12a9 routes
03Desert Queen DomeNW · 311° · 5.7–5.10c5 routes
04Silverado AreaNE · 52° · 5.10b–5.11a4 routes
05Mother Lode WallW · 267° · 5.9–5.10b3 routes
06Dike RockNW · 310° · 5.10c–5.10d2 routes
07The Gold NuggetsSW · 237° · 5.7–5.11a2 routes
08The LionNW · 304° · 5.10a–5.11c2 routes
09Noodle RockW · 254° · 5.10a–5.10c2 routes
10The TowersNW · 309° · 5.10c–5.11c2 routes
11Cocoa CragNW · 323° · 5.71 route
12Double Cross RocksSW · 221° · 5.81 route
13The Lower TierNW · 296° · 5.10a1 route
14Scary Tree PinnaclesS · 179° · 5.71 route
15Sensory Deprivation RockW · 285° · 5.12b1 route

Route names, topos and approaches are in the app.

// Where it is

On the map

// Nearby

Crags nearby

// The Friction Score for every crag

Climb more. Guess less.

When the rock grips, hour by hour and wall by wall; topos, your logbook and people to climb with. In your units (°F or °C) and your grades (YDS or French). The social side is free, always.

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