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Climbing › United States › Arkansas › Mt. Magazine Proper
// Rock climbing · Arkansas

Climbing at Mt. Magazine Proper

55 routes on 9 walls, 5.7–5.12d. In Arkansas. When the rock grips hour by hour, topos and people to climb with, in the app.

Routes
55
Walls
9
Grades
5.7–5.12d
Rock
Shale
Style
Sport · Trad
Best season (estimated)
March–May · October–November
// The grades

What grades are there?

Routes by grade

From 5.7 to 5.12d. Half are between 5.10a and 5.11d.

Each climb counts at its grade; ungraded ones are left out. In the app you can switch to French, UIAA, British or Font grades.

// The walls

Sun and shade

Mostly south-facing: sun for much of the day. A winter crag; in summer, go early or late.

North0 sectorsNortheast0 sectorsEast0 sectorsSoutheast1 sectorSouth8 sectorsSouthwest0 sectorsWest0 sectorsNorthwest0 sectors

Estimated best season: March–May · October–November. Worked out from each wall's aspect and the latitude; the app fine-tunes it with what climbers log.

Friction ScoreHow the rock grips, hour by hour and wall by wall. In the app, for every crag on the map. See it in the app →ILLUSTRATIVE EXAMPLE

// Walls

The 9 walls

ASPECT · GRADES · ROUTES
01Breakfast WallS · 198° · 5.7–5.12a20 routes
02Black on Blonde WallS · 200° · 5.10a–5.12d10 routes
03Crag CentralS · 201° · 5.7–5.12c9 routes
04Satanic Wall & East EndS · 183° · 5.7–5.11d4 routes
05First WallS · 195° · 5.10a–5.12b3 routes
06The Hallucinogen WallS · 184° · 5.9–5.11a3 routes
07Centerfold WallSE · 150° · 5.8–5.10a2 routes
08The FootstoolS · 167° · 5.7–5.82 routes
09Party Ledge WallS · 195° · 5.7–5.10a2 routes

Route names, topos and approaches are in the app.

// Where it is

On the map

Mount Magazine State ParkBuzzard Rocks (AKA Eickleberry)Mt. Magazine ProperARKANSAS · 2 CRAGS WITHIN 25 MIBoundaries © Natural Earth
// Nearby

Crags nearby

// The Friction Score for every crag

Climb more. Guess less.

When the rock grips, hour by hour and wall by wall; topos, your logbook and people to climb with. In your units (°F or °C) and your grades (YDS or French). The social side is free, always.

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